Footprints in the rock: medieval mystery of the Mazmullar plateau (Comares) - Legajos Sueltos

Cultural and bespoke tourism goes far beyond merely contemplating the beauty of a landscape; it actively seeks to decipher the historical mysteries that time has etched into stone. Within Malaga's Axarquía region, Andalusian history conceals corners that seem entirely untouched by the passing centuries. Thanks to Legajos Sueltos, these hidden chapters are now within close reach.

One of the most fascinating and lesser-known enclaves is the archaeological site of Mazmullar (historically also known as Marmuyas). Situated upon an impregnable plateau within the municipality of Comares, at an altitude of between 675 and 726 metres, this ancient settlement offers a living lesson in the complex processes of transition, resistance, and cultural hybridisation between the Hispano-Visigothic and Islamic worlds.

The rediscovery of a forgotten city

Despite its sheer scale, Mazmullar remained overlooked by official historiography for centuries, as it features neither in medieval Andalusi sources nor in the 15th-century Castilian land distributions (repartimientos). The true rediscovery of the site began thanks to local farmers. While working the rugged lands of the plateau, these labourers dismantled numerous original structures to erect dry-stone walls and monumental majanos (stone heaps) designed to demarcate plots and curb erosion.

The definitive turning point occurred in 1907 with the discovery of its celebrated monumental cistern (aljibe). This milestone captured the attention of prominent malagueño scholars and culminated in 1931 with the cistern being declared a National Historical-Artistic Monument. Successive archaeological campaigns conducted between 1976 and 1995 confirmed that the plateau harboured the urban grid of what once evolved into a grand medieval city.

Theories on its origins: beyond the myth of Hafsún

For decades, traditional theories maintained that Mazmullar was founded as a Mudéjar bastion, subsequently destroyed in the early 10th century due to its allegiance to the famous Muwallad rebellion of Omar Ibn Hafsún against the Emirate of Córdoba. Nevertheless, recent scientific revisions led by Dr David Ortega López propose a far more intricate historical scenario.

Current research indicates that the settlement began between the 9th and 10th centuries as an elevated stronghold, conditioned by political instability. Far from being a homogeneous nucleus, Mazmullar sheltered communities of Hispano-Visigoths, Mozárabs, and dhimmis (Christians under Islamic rule) undergoing a gradual process of Islamisation.

Furthermore, the archaeological record refutes an early destruction of the settlement. The first major devastation is dated between the late 11th and early 12th centuries, coinciding with the tensions of the Taifa period, prior to its definitive abandonment in the 13th century.

Advanced urbanism and the etymology of its name

Spanning an approximate area of 66,000 square metres, access to the plateau is gained via a narrow medieval path. Excavations have divided the urban core into three major functional sectors:

• Southern Sector: this area concentrated economic activity and the nucleus of power. Documented structures include an oil mill (almazara), a small wine press (lagarillo), storage silos, and anthropomorphic burials of clear Christian tradition.
• Central Sector: this represents the heart of the settlement’s hydraulic engineering. It features the grand underground cistern, structured into nine naves separated by elegant horseshoe arches, surrounded by dwellings featuring central courtyards.
• Northwestern Sector: this zone is dominated by an imposing "fortress-house", equipped with a kitchen, its own mill, and a corresponding family necropolis.

Even the etymology of its name reflects this cultural duality. Researchers consider that "Mazmullar" might derive from an Arabised pre-Islamic root, or from the Arabic terms Mašmūla or maṭmūrah, associated with a "silo" or "dungeon". It is highly plausible that the 12th-century resettlers, finding the grand central cistern no longer in use, mistook it for a deep underground dungeon. To delve deeper into the archaeological details and bibliographic sources of this enclave, consulting the comprehensive original publication on Legajos Sueltos is highly recommended.

An invitation to rediscover the Axarquía Interior

The Mazmullar plateau stands as definitive proof that the interior of Malaga treasures captivating stories of hybridisation, resilience, and cultural coexistence. Understanding the Andalusian past requires delving into the character of these white villages clinging to the mountainside and retracing those paths that once bound rural communities to the heart of al-Ándalus.

For those travellers wishing to look beyond conventional routes and experience heritage in a slow and enriching manner, the itineraries designed through the Axarquía offer an invitation to pause before such singular details. It provides the ideal opportunity to be captivated by the secrets of Comares, breathe in the silence of its peaks, and discover how the ancient trails of history intertwine seamlessly with the contemporary landscape of this land.